Are the Greatest Names in Paris Still Great?
Fall 2019 has already come and gone . . . at least as far as the fashion industry is concerned. Hundreds of designers from A to Z have shown previews of their creations in transatlantic fashion shows with Paris as the grand finale. From Alena Akhmadullina to Zuhair Murad, from Russian furs and reptile skins to fancy fantasies inspired by female warriors of Japanese nobility. Names you probably don’t know. Not yet, anyway. A short cut to fame is easy if a designer is lucky enough to be hired to infuse youthful vigor into a name once famous but now tarnished. It’s not a new game.
In 1983, the late, great Karl Lagerfeld stepped into the hallowed footsteps of Mlle. Coco Chanel, herself. His genius freshened the label’s then-stuffy style into a long-lasting legacy. It would be impossible to reach a comprehensive overview of the divergent, disparate fashions that trod the world’s catwalks for fall 2019. The “big news” was the end of dominating casual/athletic/streetwear and the rediscovery of traditional tailoring. Surely the most influential collections come from the most renowned designers, the labels with a history. But the designers (or “creative directors” as they are now often known) actually responsible for creating the clothes are no longer the name. A brand, not a person.
Four of the most famous names in fashion history are still visible, but are they viable? They each have a recognizable DNA, but that DNA is being rewritten. Chanel is to be designed by Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s right-hand assistant. But Karl, she’s not. Balenciaga has abandoned elegance for cutting edge youthwear, ineptly designed by Demna Gvasalia. Yves Saint Laurent’s first name has been discarded and the mostly black, always extremely short reinterpretation of vintage Yves is now designed by Anthony Vaccarello. Christian Dior, long-gone since his early death after a spectacular 10 year career begun in 1947, has had a string of designers delivering interpretations of Dior DNA ultra-femininity. Now the global fashion juggernaut has a female, Maria Grazia Chiuri, presenting a message that embraces and exploits the Feminist movement. A review of the four most famous names reveals a rather vague relevance to the past glories of Chanel, Balenciaga, (Yves) Saint Laurent and Christian Dior.
Alena Akhmadullina, young Russian designer of furs and reptile skins. Shown in Paris.
Zuhair Murad, young Lebanese designer of lavish materials and ornamentation. Shown in Paris.
Mlle. Coco Chanel herself plus vintage photos of classic Chanel tailoring.
Chanel’s Paris show setting in a snow-covered fantasy Alpine Village for Lagerfeld’s farewell finale collection.
Chanel, referencing the great classics, tweeds, cardigan jackets and tailored suits reinvented again and again.
Christian Dior's signature "New Look" ultra-femme designs of the 1950s.
Today’s new looks acknowledge the rich legacy of Dior’s genius.
Inspired by current Feminism rather than Dior’s history of frivolous Femininity.
Cristobal Balenciaga was considered the shape shifter of ‘50s Haute Couture.
Designer Demna Gvasalia obviously raided the archives for original Balenciaga shape inspiration.
Mod Cred (Modern Credibility) that ignores the elegant artistry of Balenciaga history.
(Yves) Saint Laurent was the kingpin of wearable trends during the 1970s and ‘80s.
Today's Saint Laurent simply updates the sophisticated style of Yves' original vision.
Today’s Saint Laurent offers a sexier reinterpretation of Yves’ fantastic imagination.
Fall 2019 has already come and gone . . . at least as far as the fashion industry is concerned. Hundreds of designers from A to Z have shown previews of their creations in transatlantic fashion shows with Paris as the grand finale. From Alena Akhmadullina to Zuhair Murad, from Russian furs and reptile skins to fancy fantasies inspired by female warriors of Japanese nobility. Names you probably don’t know. Not yet, anyway. A short cut to fame is easy if a designer is lucky enough to be hired to infuse youthful vigor into a name once famous but now tarnished. It’s not a new game.
In 1983, the late, great Karl Lagerfeld stepped into the hallowed footsteps of Mlle. Coco Chanel, herself. His genius freshened the label’s then-stuffy style into a long-lasting legacy. It would be impossible to reach a comprehensive overview of the divergent, disparate fashions that trod the world’s catwalks for fall 2019. The “big news” was the end of dominating casual/athletic/streetwear and the rediscovery of traditional tailoring. Surely the most influential collections come from the most renowned designers, the labels with a history. But the designers (or “creative directors” as they are now often known) actually responsible for creating the clothes are no longer the name. A brand, not a person.
Four of the most famous names in fashion history are still visible, but are they viable? They each have a recognizable DNA, but that DNA is being rewritten. Chanel is to be designed by Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s right-hand assistant. But Karl, she’s not. Balenciaga has abandoned elegance for cutting edge youthwear, ineptly designed by Demna Gvasalia. Yves Saint Laurent’s first name has been discarded and the mostly black, always extremely short reinterpretation of vintage Yves is now designed by Anthony Vaccarello. Christian Dior, long-gone since his early death after a spectacular 10 year career begun in 1947, has had a string of designers delivering interpretations of Dior DNA ultra-femininity. Now the global fashion juggernaut has a female, Maria Grazia Chiuri, presenting a message that embraces and exploits the Feminist movement. A review of the four most famous names reveals a rather vague relevance to the past glories of Chanel, Balenciaga, (Yves) Saint Laurent and Christian Dior.
In 1983, the late, great Karl Lagerfeld stepped into the hallowed footsteps of Mlle. Coco Chanel, herself. His genius freshened the label’s then-stuffy style into a long-lasting legacy. It would be impossible to reach a comprehensive overview of the divergent, disparate fashions that trod the world’s catwalks for fall 2019. The “big news” was the end of dominating casual/athletic/streetwear and the rediscovery of traditional tailoring. Surely the most influential collections come from the most renowned designers, the labels with a history. But the designers (or “creative directors” as they are now often known) actually responsible for creating the clothes are no longer the name. A brand, not a person.
Four of the most famous names in fashion history are still visible, but are they viable? They each have a recognizable DNA, but that DNA is being rewritten. Chanel is to be designed by Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s right-hand assistant. But Karl, she’s not. Balenciaga has abandoned elegance for cutting edge youthwear, ineptly designed by Demna Gvasalia. Yves Saint Laurent’s first name has been discarded and the mostly black, always extremely short reinterpretation of vintage Yves is now designed by Anthony Vaccarello. Christian Dior, long-gone since his early death after a spectacular 10 year career begun in 1947, has had a string of designers delivering interpretations of Dior DNA ultra-femininity. Now the global fashion juggernaut has a female, Maria Grazia Chiuri, presenting a message that embraces and exploits the Feminist movement. A review of the four most famous names reveals a rather vague relevance to the past glories of Chanel, Balenciaga, (Yves) Saint Laurent and Christian Dior.
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| Alena Akhmadullina, young Russian designer of furs and reptile skins. Shown in Paris. |
 |
| Zuhair Murad, young Lebanese designer of lavish materials and ornamentation. Shown in Paris. |
 |
| Mlle. Coco Chanel herself plus vintage photos of classic Chanel tailoring. |
 | |
|
 |
| Chanel, referencing the great classics, tweeds, cardigan jackets and tailored suits reinvented again and again. |
 |
| Christian Dior's signature "New Look" ultra-femme designs of the 1950s. |
 |
| Today’s new looks acknowledge the rich legacy of Dior’s genius. |
 |
| Inspired by current Feminism rather than Dior’s history of frivolous Femininity. |
 |
| Cristobal Balenciaga was considered the shape shifter of ‘50s Haute Couture. |
 |
| Designer Demna Gvasalia obviously raided the archives for original Balenciaga shape inspiration. |
 |
| Mod Cred (Modern Credibility) that ignores the elegant artistry of Balenciaga history. |
 |
| (Yves) Saint Laurent was the kingpin of wearable trends during the 1970s and ‘80s. |
 |
| Today's Saint Laurent simply updates the sophisticated style of Yves' original vision. |
 |
| Today’s Saint Laurent offers a sexier reinterpretation of Yves’ fantastic imagination. |
Coloring the Greatest Child Star Ever!
This month’s coloring book fun doesn’t feature one of the usual glamour girls like Betty Grable. Shirley Temple is the subject of a cute little book that shows the tiny mega-star doing all sorts of wholesome fun stuff like gardening, swimming, playing with toys, dolls, making lemonade and performing. The book was a gift from Jenny Taliadoros and previously owned by Mary B. who colored a couple of pages in 1964. I wonder where Mary is now. Little Mary colored Shirley’s ringlets pitch black! Shirley was born in 1928, made her film debut at age three, won a special Juvenile Academy Award in 1935, saw her stardom wane when she was a teen and retired in 1950 at age 22. She then became a diplomat, ambassador to Ghana and Czechoslovakia and Chief of Protocol for the United States. Twice married and the mother of three, Shirley died in 2014. She won many awards and honors including being 18th in the American Film Institute list of great screen legends.
Shirley Temple coloring book published circa 1964 and a page colored by previous owner, Mary B.
Pages colored by me, 55 years after little Mary’s black-haired Shirley.
This month’s coloring book fun doesn’t feature one of the usual glamour girls like Betty Grable. Shirley Temple is the subject of a cute little book that shows the tiny mega-star doing all sorts of wholesome fun stuff like gardening, swimming, playing with toys, dolls, making lemonade and performing. The book was a gift from Jenny Taliadoros and previously owned by Mary B. who colored a couple of pages in 1964. I wonder where Mary is now. Little Mary colored Shirley’s ringlets pitch black! Shirley was born in 1928, made her film debut at age three, won a special Juvenile Academy Award in 1935, saw her stardom wane when she was a teen and retired in 1950 at age 22. She then became a diplomat, ambassador to Ghana and Czechoslovakia and Chief of Protocol for the United States. Twice married and the mother of three, Shirley died in 2014. She won many awards and honors including being 18th in the American Film Institute list of great screen legends.
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| Shirley Temple coloring book published circa 1964 and a page colored by previous owner, Mary B. |
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| Pages colored by me, 55 years after little Mary’s black-haired Shirley. |
Fiesta! A New Paper Doll Book in Progress
I am working on a new paper doll book for Jenny Taliadoros’ Paper Studio Press. “Retro Hollywood Fiesta!” will be published later this year. It celebrates the fashion impact made by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s “Good Neighbor Policy” wherein the U.S. government encouraged travel, imports/exports, business and publicity for countries South of the Border with a focus on Mexico. Hollywood took notice of the governmental interest and produced a spate of colorful, musical movies. The titles tell the tale:
Down Argentine Way, Week-end in Havana, That Night in Rio, Mexican Holiday, Nancy Goes to Rio and of course, Fiesta! Carmen Miranda evoked the spirit of Brazil with her zany tutti-fruitti turbans and fractured accent. “Fiesta!” will have 6 paper dolls with costumes from the films: Betty Grable, Esther Williams, Jane Powell, Judy Garland, a Chorus Girl and Carmen Miranda. Keep watch for the Fiesta! Coming soon. It is interesting to note that none of the hits were filmed on location. All were filmed in the studios, sometimes with a travelogue clip inserted. That’s Hollywood, then.
Fiesta!” front cover mock-up, a work in progress.
“Hollywood Fiesta!” paper dolls: Betty Grable, Judy Garland, Carmen Miranda.
“Hollywood Fiesta!” paper dolls: Esther Williams, Jane Powell, Chorus Girl.
I am working on a new paper doll book for Jenny Taliadoros’ Paper Studio Press. “Retro Hollywood Fiesta!” will be published later this year. It celebrates the fashion impact made by President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s “Good Neighbor Policy” wherein the U.S. government encouraged travel, imports/exports, business and publicity for countries South of the Border with a focus on Mexico. Hollywood took notice of the governmental interest and produced a spate of colorful, musical movies. The titles tell the tale: Down Argentine Way, Week-end in Havana, That Night in Rio, Mexican Holiday, Nancy Goes to Rio and of course, Fiesta! Carmen Miranda evoked the spirit of Brazil with her zany tutti-fruitti turbans and fractured accent. “Fiesta!” will have 6 paper dolls with costumes from the films: Betty Grable, Esther Williams, Jane Powell, Judy Garland, a Chorus Girl and Carmen Miranda. Keep watch for the Fiesta! Coming soon. It is interesting to note that none of the hits were filmed on location. All were filmed in the studios, sometimes with a travelogue clip inserted. That’s Hollywood, then.
 |
| Fiesta!” front cover mock-up, a work in progress. |
 |
| “Hollywood Fiesta!” paper dolls: Betty Grable, Judy Garland, Carmen Miranda. |
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| “Hollywood Fiesta!” paper dolls: Esther Williams, Jane Powell, Chorus Girl. |
