Sep 20, 2019

Paper Doll Collaboration, London Fashion Party, Menswear 2020, Researching Royal Princesses, Coloring the Circus

New Creative Collaboration


In last month’s Blog, I wrote of the challenge I faced in working on a new paper doll book, “Stripes!” I wanted to re-concept the entire project, making the dolls and the clothes look more modern, more doll-like. I realized that my usual, vintage-style painterly artwork would not have the look I was after. What to do? I conferred with Jenny and together we came up with an experimental idea. Why not collaborate with a digitally adept, computer savvy artist, someone like the tremendously talented Julie Allen Matthews? (She illustrated Kitchen Kitsch Paper Dolls and was the featured artist in Vamps & Villains Paper Doll Studio OPDAG issue #118.) I have never met Julie, so Jenny became the go-between. When Jenny pitched the idea to Julie, she eagerly said “Yes!” I roughed-out my ideas for the content, designing some of the garments and referenced some others, and suggested the layout of the book. Using my sketches, she digitally rendered and painted the costumes, and I was bowled-over by the results. A perfect marriage of classic illustration and digital technology. So away we go! Watch for the “Stripes!” book to be released in November 2019. 


David’s rough designs and Julie’s computerized interpretation for “Bold” stripes.


David’s rough designs and Julie’s computerized interpretation for “Rainbow” stripes.

David’s rough designs and Julie’s computerized interpretation for “Vintage” stripes.


Getting A-head


Thinking back, I realize that I have raced deadlines for my entire career, from my first job (age 19 in 1959) as assistant to the Advertising Manager for a small chain of Ohio department stores. When I retired from my final full-time job (age 75 in 2016), the pressure was off and I was happily faced with lots and lots of time to create paper dolls, write my monthly blog and contributions to Paper Doll Studio and Paperdoll Review Magazines. Case in point: I needed to create heads for two dolls on the back cover of the forthcoming paper doll book, “Stripes,” so I enjoyed toying with many versions with different faces and coiffures. Which two heads were chosen? Find out next month!


 Brunette, blonde or redhead?


 A quartet of faces.

 A trio of varied faces and coiffures.



New Pop Trends Paper Doll Book, Now Available


Recently published by Paper Studio Press: Pop Trends Paper Dolls, a new book that will be especially fun to cut-out and play with. Three dolls, sized the same, are able to wear each other’s 90-piece wardrobe of timeless/trendy fashions: Nostalgic, Romantic, Exotic, Gypsy, Minimal, Uniform, Sporty and Futuristic. Do as real-life stylists do, mix items from different trends and create a brand new look. Example: Romantic lace-trimmed jeans with an Exotic top. Anything goes these days! 


 Pop Trends cover doll trio, ready to mix and match outfits.

 Romantic and Nostalgic Trends.

 Exotic and Gypsy Trends.

 Minimal and Uniform Trends.

 Sporty and Futuristic Trends.


Coloring the Circus


Most every coloring book in my collection is devoted to a vintage Hollywood movie star of the ‘40s, “50s or ‘60s. One exception is a 1953 Merrill coloring book, “Super-Dooper Circus.” Not a single glamour star in it, but I added it to my collection nevertheless because I fell in love with the cover art, a joyously exuberant visualization of a circus parade. 

 Super-Dooper Circus” cover and title page.

 Two pages colored by me. 


Remembering a Very Special London Fashion Party


While rummaging through some storage boxes, I happened to find a London party invitation that brought back memories that I want to share. I cannot recall the year of the party and the invitation only provides the month and day. My guess is that it was in the early 1970s. Anne Knight, the brilliant Fashion Director of Fortnum and Mason, was famed for transforming the fusty 200 year old elegant emporium into the swinging fashion epicenter of the era. She “discovered” me when I moved to England in the mid-'60s and for years I produced the store’s adverts that appeared in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Anne called me one day and told me she was opening a new boutique department that would carry a trio of cutting edge designers: Jean Muir, Zandra Rhodes and Bill Gibb. She asked me to come up with a name for the high fashion trio. In a flash, I suggested “Odyssey” and so it became. The opening party was fabulously peopled with celebrities and a few minor Royals. Read the fine print for the late night dress code: unpredictable. Ah, yes, I well remember what I wore; a white cashmere sweater that laced-up with suede thongs trimmed with ermine tails and Native American pottery beads. My skin-tight pants were made of pigskin and I tucked them into python boots with sky-high platforms and heels. Need I even tell you that my hair flowed down past my shoulders? (Yes, I had hair then. No, I don’t have any photos.) Memories like this light the corners of my mind. Wasn’t I the lucky one? 


 My illustration on the invitation to celebrate the opening of the “Odyssey” Boutique in London’s poshest store, Fortnum & Mason.

 The RSVP invitation to the most fashionable London party of the year. Too bad I cannot remember what year it was! 


Menswear Spring '20 Shows Go on and On


The chaotic, confused fashion calendar meant to preview the spring ’20 Trans-Atlantic menswear shows remains muddled. Many designer collections now mix menswear into some women’s fashion shows or mix women’s into menswear shows. It’s best to give up trying to make sense of the timing and focus on influential ideas. The rediscovery of tailoring continues to be the most important overriding trend, but for younger men, the tailoring is softer, roomy and relaxed. Easy tailoring means bigger suits and jackets, oversize shirts. Belts sometimes cinch-in bigger coats and jackets. As the athleisure-sporty-utility mega-trend continues to wane, some dandy-ish prints and colors add fresh excitement. Mellow yellows are a super stand-alone color newsmaker. The silliest newsmaker is transparency. Why, oh why? 


 Mellow yellows stand-out by Craig Green, Botter and Ovadia.



 More mellow yellows by Ovadia, Sies Marjan and White Mountaineering.

 Relaxed tailoring for suits by Alyx, Officine Generale and Ovadia.

 Belts are a cinch by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Sies Marjan and Sies Marjan.

 Oversize jackets and shirts at Sacai, Alyx and Willy Chavarria.

 Dandy-ish prints at White Mountaineering, ditto and ditto.


 Athleisure-utility mega-trend continues at Willy Chavarria, Craig Green and Sacai.


 Silly attention-grabber transparencies by Craig Green, Pigalle and Ludovic de Saint Sernin. 


Researching the Real-Life Royal Princesses


I am beginning to plan my projects for 2020 and have started the research for a new book, “Royal Princesses of the 20th Century,” representing five iconic fashion trend-setters of their periods. No Disney princesses in this planned book. It begins with Princess Alexandra of Denmark who wed the Prince of Wales in 1902 and became Queen Consort to King Edward VII. The next doll in the book will be Princess Margaret Rose (sister of Queen Elizabeth II). Then to Hollywood for Grace Kelly who became Her Serene Highness, Princess Grace of Monaco. Back to the United Kingdom to include Anne, The Princess Royal, daughter of Queen Elizabeth II and reputed to be the hardest worker of the Windsor family. No surprise that Princess Diana, “The People’s Princess” and the most-photographed person of the 20th century completes this enchanting five-some of regal royal real-life princesses. I intend to keep you posted as this paper doll project is created for publication sometime in 2020 by Paper Studio Press. 



 Princess Alexandra of Denmark who became Queen Consort of Edward VII.



 Princess Margaret Rose, dressed by Christian Dior for her 21st birthday.

 Princess Grace of Monaco, formerly movie star Grace Kelly.


 Anne, Princess Royal, Olympic horsewoman and fashion clotheshorse.

 Diana, Princess of Wales, mega-celebrity and beloved as “The People’s Princess.”

Aug 17, 2019

Fall 2019 Haute Couture, Colored Pencils for Antique Coloring Books, Stripes! Behind the Scenes

Fall '19 Haute Couture Creativity


Paris custom-made elitist fashion, known as Haute Couture, lives in a world of its own, governed by a confusing calendar that schedules Fall ’19 shows in July ’19. Confusing because the more realistic ready-to-wear designers have leapt ahead and already have shown Spring ’20 collections in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Confusing? Nobody seems bothered. A handful of designers demonstrate the diversity that defines fashion today. Each and every designer executes his or her own ideas, sometimes coincidentally agreeing on “trends” such as similar color palettes, silhouettes, textiles and design details. 

For the better-late-than-never Haute Couture Fall ’19 season color concepts, there is a pretty pastel story along with a few powerful brights as well as reassuring black and more black. The silhouette du saison is voluminous, except when it’s slender. Many designers reinterpreted the sumptuously sculptural ‘50s creations of Cristobal Balenciaga and Charles James. There are a few overall ideas that appeared again and again. Tailoring continues to be regaining importance as evidenced by the presence of sharply tailored pantsuits that just happened to open many shows. Somewhat sublime simplicity gives pared-down, serious styles a sense of gravitas while the attention-grabbing opposite attitude sometimes played as a ridiculous joke. It seems as if the purpose of the venerable Haute Couture collections shown in Paris these days is to play catch-up with the truly trend-setting ready-to-wear international designer collections. But wait! Pure artistry prevails in a few collections: Iris Van Herpen, Ralph Rucci, Valentino and Chanel. Possible surprise dark horse newsmaker is the ethereal transparent veiling causing a bit of old fashioned fashion buzz in more than a few collections…Vive, La Paris! 


Pretty pastel story: Armani Prive, Armani Prive, Givenchy

Powerful palette: Valentino, Alberta Ferretti, Viktor & Rolf.

Reassuring black: All, Christian Dior.

 Interesting color combos: Ralph Rucci RR331, Valentino, Valentino.

Slender silhouette: Ronald van der Kemp, Chanel, Ralph Rucci RR331.

 Voluminous silhouette: Iris van Herpen, Valentino, Martin Margiela.

 Recalling ‘50s flair of Balenciaga and Charles James: Ralph Rucci RR331, Ralph Rucci RR331, Valentino.

 Serious simplicity: Ralph Rucci RR331, Valentino, Alberta Ferretti. 

Sharply tailored pantsuits: Fendi, Chanel, Armani Prive.


 Attention-grabbing jokes? Ronald van der Kemp, Valentino, Valentino.


 Artful originality: Iris Van Herpen.


 Artful elegance: Ralph Rucci RR331.

 Artful classics revisited: Virginie Viard at Chanel.

 Artful creativity: Piero Piccioli at Valentino.

 Veiled transparencies, textile news: Armani Prive, Fendi, Elie Saab.


Colored Pencils for Antique Coloring Books


I learned early to stay in the lines and I have always been hopelessly devoted to happy hours spent coloring. Of course, my favorite coloring books always depicted the lovely ladies of the silver screen. In my opinion, the best movie star coloring books were printed in the ‘40s and ‘50s and as a kid, I hoarded a big collection that disappeared in the mists of time when I relocated to London in 1968. Decades later, as a nostalgic old guy back in America, I accumulated a big collection of vintage books and merrily colored a few pages left uncolored in the precious collectibles. I usually used Crayola crayons and I switched to colored pencils, but I soon discovered that the inferior quality paper was endangering the lifespan of the treasured coloring books. Nobody ever expected that the 15 or 25 cent books were to become valuable one day. Rare, uncolored books can today fetch hundreds of dollars (although almost impossible to find.) Unfortunately, many of the most collectible books are reaching the end of the paper’s lifespan, many seventy years old, or older. Not only are the pages yellowing, but the paper is dry, brittle and disintegrates when crayons or pencils are used. I color the pages very gently and lightly when what I really want is lush, vivid color (like Technicolor used to be!). 

You can imagine how excited I was when by my friend, Kevin Wilkins introduced me to the colored wax pencils produced by a cool Australian company, Black Widow. Offered on amazon.com (very reasonably priced) is a 24 pencil set and two smaller sets packaged for light or dark skin shades and accents. I couldn’t wait to see if these new colored wax pencils would allow me to achieve the intense coloration I yearn for. Alas and alack! I had just acquired a mostly-uncolored “Ann Blyth” coloring book and when the point of the wax pencil tore right through the first page, I had to admit that my treasured coloring books are going, going, almost-gone. But like Molly Brown, I am unsinkable and I’m now going to try duplicating uncolored pages on a copier and I’ll try coloring the black and white copies with my new Black Widow colored wax pencils. If that doesn’t work, I may start collecting coloring book Covers (sadly discarding the disintegrating interior pages.) The covers were usually masterpieces of fan art…hmmm. What an interesting idea! 


 Black Widow 24 colored wax pencil set and Skin 12 colored wax pencil set. 

 Ann Blyth 1952 Coloring Book cover and colored title page.

 Two pages from the book, colored by me using Black Widow colored wax pencils.




A New Paper Doll Book is Born


Sometimes the creative process is not the shortest distance between two points. Case in point: Recently, I was chatting with Jenny Taliadoros, the owner-publisher of Paper Studio Press. We were discussing our favorite subject, paper doll books. We came up with the idea for a book devoted solely to stripes. We thought it would be a perfect subject for Brenda Sneathen Mattox. Wrong! Brenda was not at all excited by the subject. She had another project she wanted to pursue and Jenny approved. Meanwhile, I had roughed out an idea for the stripe book cover-- a woman in a backless black dress trimmed with a giant bow and streamers in rainbow colors. I suggested to Jenny that I’d like to do the book myself and she gave me her blessing. I wanted to rework my cover idea and make the ribbon wider, which was not an easy thing to do. I devised a grid to figure out the stripes but there were too many lines and would be weeks of work. I simplified the stripes and sent it off to Jenny who disliked the rainbow color scheme and suggested I come up with a more sophisticated color story. So it was back to the drawing board, one more time. I decided to reconcept the entire project, making the dolls and the clothes look more modern, more doll-like. I realized that my usual, vintage-style approach would not have the look I was after. What to do? I conferred with Jenny and we came up with a surprising twist. To be continued in next month’s blog… 


 Left: very rough idea in color. Right: Grid guide with far too many lines!


 Left: Mis-guided crayon test that failed. Right: Wider stripes deemed too "rainbow-y" by Jenny.

 Left: Back cover in the works with doll. Right: Sophisticated stripes in shades of pink. Rejected!



Join us at the 2020 Paper Doll Convention!


Another fun time is planned for our paper doll family! Jill Kaar Hanson and her husband Jerry are hosting our next convention, July 1-5, 2020, in Milwaukee, WI. Visit OPDAG's convention page for more information. Hope to see you there!