Camping at the Met Gala
What began several years ago as an elegant soiree at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art has become a fashion farce. Whereas in the past, it was a high society highpoint, an elite fundraiser attended by the best-dressed socialites. Now it is a costume party. Celebrities, major and minor, preen and pose on a sweeping stairway that suits the extravagant and often enormous gowns. Since the theme of the exhibition is publicized ahead of the opening night party, there is plenty of time for the guests desperately seeking attention to deck themselves in the theme du jour. “Camp: Notes on Fashion” was this year’s license to go over the top. And did they ever! Unfortunately, this year’s theme encouraged shenanigans rather than style.The Met Gala has jumped the shark. Most of the celebrities were obviously unaware of what constitutes “camp.” Camp (n.) is defined as being so extreme that it has an amusing and sometimes perversely sophisticated appeal, intentionally exaggerated so as not to be taken seriously. The evening started with Lady GaGa’s “performance art” strip tease helped by designer Brandon Maxwell to peel off layers, and the evening ended with Cardi b.’s blood red monumental creation by Thom Browne. The time in between was devoted to scores of lesser celebrities, often looking like Vegas showgirls, parading up and down the pink-carpeted sweeping stairway leading to the $30,000.00 a plate dinner.
Lady GaGa’s multi-layered pin-up girl strip tease with designer Brandon Maxwell aided by half a dozen male dancers with big umbrellas. The crowd loved it, as did the social network.
Correctly “Camp” creations worn by Janelle Monae, Hailee Steinfeld and Ezra Miller.
Feathered frenzy ; Kendall Jenner, Anna Wintour, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.
Gilding the glamour; Emily Blunt, Billy Porter, Awkwafina.
Sky high headdressing; Celine Dion, Cara Delevingne, Gemma Chan.
Pink power; Kacey Musgraves, Deepika Padukone, Emma Roberts.
Icy white lightning; Gwen Stefani, Gigi Hadid, Katy Perry.
Daredevil men of style; Ryan Murphy, Darren Criss, Alessandro Michele.
The long and short of hemlines; Charlie XCX, Nicki Minaj, Lili Reinhart.
Absolutely extravagant; Saoirse Ronan, Lupita Nyong’O, Regina Hall.
Cardi b., the last to walk the pink carpet is an appropriate grand finale in an over the top Thom Browne creation.
What began several years ago as an elegant soiree at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art has become a fashion farce. Whereas in the past, it was a high society highpoint, an elite fundraiser attended by the best-dressed socialites. Now it is a costume party. Celebrities, major and minor, preen and pose on a sweeping stairway that suits the extravagant and often enormous gowns. Since the theme of the exhibition is publicized ahead of the opening night party, there is plenty of time for the guests desperately seeking attention to deck themselves in the theme du jour. “Camp: Notes on Fashion” was this year’s license to go over the top. And did they ever! Unfortunately, this year’s theme encouraged shenanigans rather than style.The Met Gala has jumped the shark. Most of the celebrities were obviously unaware of what constitutes “camp.” Camp (n.) is defined as being so extreme that it has an amusing and sometimes perversely sophisticated appeal, intentionally exaggerated so as not to be taken seriously. The evening started with Lady GaGa’s “performance art” strip tease helped by designer Brandon Maxwell to peel off layers, and the evening ended with Cardi b.’s blood red monumental creation by Thom Browne. The time in between was devoted to scores of lesser celebrities, often looking like Vegas showgirls, parading up and down the pink-carpeted sweeping stairway leading to the $30,000.00 a plate dinner.
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| Lady GaGa’s multi-layered pin-up girl strip tease with designer Brandon Maxwell aided by half a dozen male dancers with big umbrellas. The crowd loved it, as did the social network. |
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| Correctly “Camp” creations worn by Janelle Monae, Hailee Steinfeld and Ezra Miller. |
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| Feathered frenzy ; Kendall Jenner, Anna Wintour, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. |
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| Gilding the glamour; Emily Blunt, Billy Porter, Awkwafina. |
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| Sky high headdressing; Celine Dion, Cara Delevingne, Gemma Chan. |
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| Pink power; Kacey Musgraves, Deepika Padukone, Emma Roberts. |
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| Icy white lightning; Gwen Stefani, Gigi Hadid, Katy Perry. |
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| Daredevil men of style; Ryan Murphy, Darren Criss, Alessandro Michele. |
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| The long and short of hemlines; Charlie XCX, Nicki Minaj, Lili Reinhart. |
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| Absolutely extravagant; Saoirse Ronan, Lupita Nyong’O, Regina Hall. |
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| Cardi b., the last to walk the pink carpet is an appropriate grand finale in an over the top Thom Browne creation. |
Fall 2019 Runway Review Checklist
The fashion world is always in an advanced time zone. Now that the real-time world is ready for summertime to begin, designers and retailers are eagerly anticipating the delivery of Fall 2019. Fashion Weeks that previewed the new looks have come and gone. Pity the poor consumers who are forced to think back to the runway shows in order to decide what is going to be trending next. Here’s my own cheat sheet to help recall the top five trends for Fall 2019 (when it actually arrives!). The biggest news is the best, as if fashion is turning back Time to the days of the Best-Dressed List when style was polished, when tailoring was precise and fashion was all grown-up. Perhaps the fashion world is finally moving beyond throw-away athleisurewear, at long last. This shift in attitude turns the spotlight on suits, smartly tailored jackets (fitted or boxy) with matching skirts or pants. Traditional patterned textiles are again focusing attention on woven plaids and checks, especially traditional Glen plaids. If this is starting to sound somewhat dull, fret not. There is still room for extravagant expressions of sparkling razzle-dazzle, frothy furs and a few fine feathers. As expected, black is always present, but for Fall 2019 it is more prevalent than recent seasons.
Back to Best-Dressed: Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana.
Suitably Attired: Dolce & Gabbana, McQueen, Burberry.
Traditional Textile Patterns: Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry.
Extravagant Expressions: Michael Kors, Naeem Khan, Dolce & Gabbana.
Black Evermore: McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy.
The fashion world is always in an advanced time zone. Now that the real-time world is ready for summertime to begin, designers and retailers are eagerly anticipating the delivery of Fall 2019. Fashion Weeks that previewed the new looks have come and gone. Pity the poor consumers who are forced to think back to the runway shows in order to decide what is going to be trending next. Here’s my own cheat sheet to help recall the top five trends for Fall 2019 (when it actually arrives!). The biggest news is the best, as if fashion is turning back Time to the days of the Best-Dressed List when style was polished, when tailoring was precise and fashion was all grown-up. Perhaps the fashion world is finally moving beyond throw-away athleisurewear, at long last. This shift in attitude turns the spotlight on suits, smartly tailored jackets (fitted or boxy) with matching skirts or pants. Traditional patterned textiles are again focusing attention on woven plaids and checks, especially traditional Glen plaids. If this is starting to sound somewhat dull, fret not. There is still room for extravagant expressions of sparkling razzle-dazzle, frothy furs and a few fine feathers. As expected, black is always present, but for Fall 2019 it is more prevalent than recent seasons.
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| Back to Best-Dressed: Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana. |
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| Suitably Attired: Dolce & Gabbana, McQueen, Burberry. |
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| Traditional Textile Patterns: Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry. |
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| Extravagant Expressions: Michael Kors, Naeem Khan, Dolce & Gabbana. |
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| Black Evermore: McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy. |
Magical Models Return to the Runways
Gone are the days of so-called Supermodels of the ‘70s and ‘80s. They had personality and pizzazz that brought electricity to the runways. I think it is unfortunate that they were replaced by youngsters, dazed and disgruntled sleepwalkers loping down the runways like zombies. Wait! There is hope. A few top models from the past reappeared as if by magic at the fall 2019 shows. There was Patti Hansen (62), Christy Turlington (50), Grace Jones (70), Karen Bjornson (67), Alva Chinn (70) and the legendary Pat Cleveland (68), Queen of the Catwalks. She began modeling as a teen-ager and was one of the first to succeed in print as well as runway. No wonder, her exotic looks made her perfectly photogenic but it was her delicate but jazzy dancer’s movement that turned her into a true superstar. Pat Cleveland’s every appearance was a performance as she pranced and pirouetted, effervescent as a glass of champagne. She has lately been mentoring her daughter Anna’s modeling debut. She also has a son and lives in New Jersey where she and her second husband, Paul Van Ravenstein, raise peacocks. Sadly, Pat was recently diagnosed with colon cancer while working in Paris. Her expensive treatment was not covered by Medicare. When the news broke, her friends and colleagues in the fashion industry launched a crowd funding account that quickly generated enough money to pay Pat’s 6-figure medical bills.
Karen Bjornson 67/ Pat Cleveland 68/Alva Chinn 70, Christy Turlington 50 and 68 year old Pat Cleveland on the Tommy Hilfiger runway.
Grace Jones 70, Patti Hansen 62.
Pat Cleveland in the 1970s.
Gone are the days of so-called Supermodels of the ‘70s and ‘80s. They had personality and pizzazz that brought electricity to the runways. I think it is unfortunate that they were replaced by youngsters, dazed and disgruntled sleepwalkers loping down the runways like zombies. Wait! There is hope. A few top models from the past reappeared as if by magic at the fall 2019 shows. There was Patti Hansen (62), Christy Turlington (50), Grace Jones (70), Karen Bjornson (67), Alva Chinn (70) and the legendary Pat Cleveland (68), Queen of the Catwalks. She began modeling as a teen-ager and was one of the first to succeed in print as well as runway. No wonder, her exotic looks made her perfectly photogenic but it was her delicate but jazzy dancer’s movement that turned her into a true superstar. Pat Cleveland’s every appearance was a performance as she pranced and pirouetted, effervescent as a glass of champagne. She has lately been mentoring her daughter Anna’s modeling debut. She also has a son and lives in New Jersey where she and her second husband, Paul Van Ravenstein, raise peacocks. Sadly, Pat was recently diagnosed with colon cancer while working in Paris. Her expensive treatment was not covered by Medicare. When the news broke, her friends and colleagues in the fashion industry launched a crowd funding account that quickly generated enough money to pay Pat’s 6-figure medical bills.
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| Karen Bjornson 67/ Pat Cleveland 68/Alva Chinn 70, Christy Turlington 50 and 68 year old Pat Cleveland on the Tommy Hilfiger runway. |
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| Grace Jones 70, Patti Hansen 62. |
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| Pat Cleveland in the 1970s. |
Worst Fashion Ad... Ever!
Double page spread in May issue of “Vogue.” Shame on Gucci!
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| Double page spread in May issue of “Vogue.” Shame on Gucci! |
Coloring Eve Arden
This month’s coloring fun was in a book gifted to me by Jenny Taliadoros. I knew there had been an Eve Arden paper doll published in the ‘50s, but the coloring book was a nice surprise. I was a devoted fan of Our Miss Brooks when I was growing up and I always hoped I’d have a high school English teacher just like Eve Arden, smart and sardonic. But I didn’t. Over the years I grew to appreciate the actress playing supporting roles in scores of motion pictures such as Mildred Pierce and Cover Girl. I was very pleased when I landed the plum assignment of writing Eve’s bio for Paperdoll Review Magazine. I also contributed the doll I did in the souvenir book that I created for last year’s convention. I gave her a new very sophisticated dress and a fetching ‘40s hat, too.
Eve Arden Coloring Book, 1953 and page colored by me, 2019.
Chic Eve publicity photo, and as “Our Miss Brooks” in the long-running TV series.
For Paperdoll Review Magazine: Eve paper doll and dress/hat worn in “Cover Girl.”
This month’s coloring fun was in a book gifted to me by Jenny Taliadoros. I knew there had been an Eve Arden paper doll published in the ‘50s, but the coloring book was a nice surprise. I was a devoted fan of Our Miss Brooks when I was growing up and I always hoped I’d have a high school English teacher just like Eve Arden, smart and sardonic. But I didn’t. Over the years I grew to appreciate the actress playing supporting roles in scores of motion pictures such as Mildred Pierce and Cover Girl. I was very pleased when I landed the plum assignment of writing Eve’s bio for Paperdoll Review Magazine. I also contributed the doll I did in the souvenir book that I created for last year’s convention. I gave her a new very sophisticated dress and a fetching ‘40s hat, too.
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| Eve Arden Coloring Book, 1953 and page colored by me, 2019. |
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| Chic Eve publicity photo, and as “Our Miss Brooks” in the long-running TV series. |
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| For Paperdoll Review Magazine: Eve paper doll and dress/hat worn in “Cover Girl.” |
Dressing Movie Star Paper Dolls for Fiesta!
I have just completed a new paper doll book for Paper Studio Press. “Hollywood Retro Fiesta” will be published later this year. It was probably the most challenging artwork I’ve ever done. The book has six dolls: Carmen Miranda, Betty Grable, Judy Garland, Jane Powell, Esther Williams and a Chorus Girl. Each doll has a costume or two from a film made during WWII’s “Good Neighbor Policy” inspired by a governmental request for Hollywood to make movies flattering to our Central and South American allies. Included in the films were lavish musicals such as “Fiesta,” “Down Argentine Way,” “Week-end in Havana,” “Holiday in Mexico,” “That Night in Rio” and “Bathing Beauty.” The costumes were very extravagant and detailed, difficult to capture with markers/paints/pencil. I had to recreate some several times before I was satisfied. The book will include an essay by my daughter, Professor Amanda Hallay-Heath, whose YouTube series has more than 30,000 dedicated followers.
Carmen Miranda in “Week-end in Havana” and Judy Garland in “Ziegfeld Girl.”
Chorus girl in “Week-end in Havana” and Esther Williams in “Fiesta.”
Two versions of embroidered dress and swimsuit cover-up cape worn by Esther Williams in “Easy to Wed.”
Photo of Betty Grable in “Down Argentine Way,” rejected gown and approved version of dress on doll.
New faces: Rejected chorus girl and accepted retro-glam chorine.
I have just completed a new paper doll book for Paper Studio Press. “Hollywood Retro Fiesta” will be published later this year. It was probably the most challenging artwork I’ve ever done. The book has six dolls: Carmen Miranda, Betty Grable, Judy Garland, Jane Powell, Esther Williams and a Chorus Girl. Each doll has a costume or two from a film made during WWII’s “Good Neighbor Policy” inspired by a governmental request for Hollywood to make movies flattering to our Central and South American allies. Included in the films were lavish musicals such as “Fiesta,” “Down Argentine Way,” “Week-end in Havana,” “Holiday in Mexico,” “That Night in Rio” and “Bathing Beauty.” The costumes were very extravagant and detailed, difficult to capture with markers/paints/pencil. I had to recreate some several times before I was satisfied. The book will include an essay by my daughter, Professor Amanda Hallay-Heath, whose YouTube series has more than 30,000 dedicated followers.
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| Carmen Miranda in “Week-end in Havana” and Judy Garland in “Ziegfeld Girl.” |
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| Chorus girl in “Week-end in Havana” and Esther Williams in “Fiesta.” |
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| Photo of Betty Grable in “Down Argentine Way,” rejected gown and approved version of dress on doll. |
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| New faces: Rejected chorus girl and accepted retro-glam chorine. |
Creative Collaboration
“High Fashions of the 1940s” is a recently published very special paper doll from Paper Studio Press. It is the work of Satch La Valley who passed away several years ago. He was apparently a very flamboyant personality, an exceptional artist, an expert on Hollywood history and a collector of vintage fashions. I regret that I never had the privilege to meet him as I admire his artwork so greatly. He was friends with Gene Maiden, the beloved gentleman whose passion and personality made him a driving force in the paper doll community. Gene was well connected to Hollywood and often arranged to bring stars to the Los Angeles paper doll parties and conventions. (It is thanks to Gene that I met so many stars including Marsha Hunt, Ann Rutherford, Betty Garrett, Margaret O’Brien and Jane Powell.) Gene frequently commissioned various artists to create special paper dolls for him and he requested Satch La Valley to do a paper doll inspired by designer Adrian. Satch had many Adrian creations in his own vintage fashion collection. Before he died a few years ago, Gene gave the doll and clothes artwork to Jenny Taliadoros in hopes that she would publish it. Several years passed and during that time Jenny showed me Satch’s work. I was thrilled and suggested I design the book’s covers and decorative elements on the clothes pages. I was inspired by Salvador Dali’s Surrealism that was so hot in the ‘40s. The book is something special, a rare collaborative effort that spanned the years before its recent publication. An absolute must for paper doll collectors and fashion history enthusiasts, “High Fashions of the 1940s” is available from PaperdollReview.com.
High Fashions of the 1940s: Front and back covers.
High Fashions of the 1940s: 2-pages of clothes to dress the doll.
“High Fashions of the 1940s” is a recently published very special paper doll from Paper Studio Press. It is the work of Satch La Valley who passed away several years ago. He was apparently a very flamboyant personality, an exceptional artist, an expert on Hollywood history and a collector of vintage fashions. I regret that I never had the privilege to meet him as I admire his artwork so greatly. He was friends with Gene Maiden, the beloved gentleman whose passion and personality made him a driving force in the paper doll community. Gene was well connected to Hollywood and often arranged to bring stars to the Los Angeles paper doll parties and conventions. (It is thanks to Gene that I met so many stars including Marsha Hunt, Ann Rutherford, Betty Garrett, Margaret O’Brien and Jane Powell.) Gene frequently commissioned various artists to create special paper dolls for him and he requested Satch La Valley to do a paper doll inspired by designer Adrian. Satch had many Adrian creations in his own vintage fashion collection. Before he died a few years ago, Gene gave the doll and clothes artwork to Jenny Taliadoros in hopes that she would publish it. Several years passed and during that time Jenny showed me Satch’s work. I was thrilled and suggested I design the book’s covers and decorative elements on the clothes pages. I was inspired by Salvador Dali’s Surrealism that was so hot in the ‘40s. The book is something special, a rare collaborative effort that spanned the years before its recent publication. An absolute must for paper doll collectors and fashion history enthusiasts, “High Fashions of the 1940s” is available from PaperdollReview.com.
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| High Fashions of the 1940s: Front and back covers. |
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| High Fashions of the 1940s: 2-pages of clothes to dress the doll. |
Rest in Peace, Doris Day
The world is a sadder place with the passing of Doris Day just a few weeks after her 97th birthday. Her professional persona was sunshiny and sincere. Her talent as a singer and actress was absolutely natural and her dedication to her Animal Foundation was authentic and heartfelt. I never met her, but did have a telephone conversation with her when Paper Studio Press published the first of three Doris Day paper doll books I created. It became the biggest selling paper doll book I have ever done. I had submitted a list of my favorite costumes for her to approve. She said she trusted me. Each book was a joy because I would watch her movies again and again, making sure I was accurately representing the costumes she wore during her long career. I was thrilled to chat with her. She told me that she always was too busy on the set to be actively involved in designing her movie wardrobes and she trusted the talented designers who dressed her. She surprised me by telling me her favorite costume was a gold suede wrap coat with matching big-brimmed hat and high gloves. Chuckling, she said, “It made me feel like Greta Garbo.”
Original study, one of more than a dozen done in an effort to capture Doris Day’s effervescence.
Covers of my trio of Doris Day Paper Doll books published by Paper Studio Press (“Pillow Talk” is a limited edition commissioned for her birthday celebration this year, not available for sale.)
The world is a sadder place with the passing of Doris Day just a few weeks after her 97th birthday. Her professional persona was sunshiny and sincere. Her talent as a singer and actress was absolutely natural and her dedication to her Animal Foundation was authentic and heartfelt. I never met her, but did have a telephone conversation with her when Paper Studio Press published the first of three Doris Day paper doll books I created. It became the biggest selling paper doll book I have ever done. I had submitted a list of my favorite costumes for her to approve. She said she trusted me. Each book was a joy because I would watch her movies again and again, making sure I was accurately representing the costumes she wore during her long career. I was thrilled to chat with her. She told me that she always was too busy on the set to be actively involved in designing her movie wardrobes and she trusted the talented designers who dressed her. She surprised me by telling me her favorite costume was a gold suede wrap coat with matching big-brimmed hat and high gloves. Chuckling, she said, “It made me feel like Greta Garbo.”
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| Original study, one of more than a dozen done in an effort to capture Doris Day’s effervescence. |
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| Covers of my trio of Doris Day Paper Doll books published by Paper Studio Press (“Pillow Talk” is a limited edition commissioned for her birthday celebration this year, not available for sale.) |
