THINKING PINK: AGAIN AND AGAIN!
The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York City is currently hosting a major exhibition devoted to the history of ever-popular pink. Make that plural, please. Pinks-with-an-s; from baby to Barbie, from sweet and innocent to edgy and erotic, from the 18th century to the “Pussycat” protest hat. Pink’s past is on view and includes historically popular pinks such as Schiaparelli Pink and recent pale Millennial Pink. Brilliant museum curator Dr. Valerie Steele explained the broad scope of this important exhibition. She said, “…there is no transcultural truth about color: it’s not like pink always means romance and femininity…it means whatever society says it does.” That is why the Pink exhibition which ends January 5, 2019, is sub-titled, “The History of a PUNK, PRETTY, POWERFUL Color.” A companion book is available on Amazon.com for $37.15.
Thinking pinks at NYC’s Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology.)
More pinks to think about on display at FIT until January 5, 2019.
A never-ending parade of pinks, again and again, century after century.
The Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York City is currently hosting a major exhibition devoted to the history of ever-popular pink. Make that plural, please. Pinks-with-an-s; from baby to Barbie, from sweet and innocent to edgy and erotic, from the 18th century to the “Pussycat” protest hat. Pink’s past is on view and includes historically popular pinks such as Schiaparelli Pink and recent pale Millennial Pink. Brilliant museum curator Dr. Valerie Steele explained the broad scope of this important exhibition. She said, “…there is no transcultural truth about color: it’s not like pink always means romance and femininity…it means whatever society says it does.” That is why the Pink exhibition which ends January 5, 2019, is sub-titled, “The History of a PUNK, PRETTY, POWERFUL Color.” A companion book is available on Amazon.com for $37.15.
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| Thinking pinks at NYC’s Museum at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology.) |
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| More pinks to think about on display at FIT until January 5, 2019. |
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| A never-ending parade of pinks, again and again, century after century. |
COLORING IN THE PINK!
One of the joys of coloring books is the colorist’s absolute authority to make color choices. Inspired by the current Pink exhibition, I thought it would be fun to pick out four of my vintage coloring books and color a page in each of them in shades of pink.
Jane Powell in a floral hat and Marilyn Monroe in provocative sparkle.
Ann Blyth in a dance dress and Esther Williams in a bullfighter’s suit of light.
One of the joys of coloring books is the colorist’s absolute authority to make color choices. Inspired by the current Pink exhibition, I thought it would be fun to pick out four of my vintage coloring books and color a page in each of them in shades of pink.
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| Jane Powell in a floral hat and Marilyn Monroe in provocative sparkle. |
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| Ann Blyth in a dance dress and Esther Williams in a bullfighter’s suit of light. |
ADVANCE PEEK: BRIT BEAUTIES
For the forthcoming UK-themed issue of Paper Doll Studio, the OPDAG magazine, editor/publisher Jenny Taliadoros asked me to write a piece about two ground-breaking English fashion models of the 1960s. Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy became the first supermodels from the UK. Both beauties were icons of the Pop Culture “Youthquake.” To illustrate the article, I am creating paper dolls and here’s a preview of Twiggy and the Shrimp.
Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy, studies for a pair of Pop Culture supermodels.
For the forthcoming UK-themed issue of Paper Doll Studio, the OPDAG magazine, editor/publisher Jenny Taliadoros asked me to write a piece about two ground-breaking English fashion models of the 1960s. Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy became the first supermodels from the UK. Both beauties were icons of the Pop Culture “Youthquake.” To illustrate the article, I am creating paper dolls and here’s a preview of Twiggy and the Shrimp.
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| Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy, studies for a pair of Pop Culture supermodels. |
DING DONG, THE WITCH IS... GREEN!
My contribution to the up-coming “Green” issue of Paper Doll Studio magazine is a make-over of the Wicked Witch including a costume made from draperies and worn by Scarlett O’Hara in “Gone With the Wind.”
The Wicked Witch of the West make-over with GWTW green velvet costume.
My contribution to the up-coming “Green” issue of Paper Doll Studio magazine is a make-over of the Wicked Witch including a costume made from draperies and worn by Scarlett O’Hara in “Gone With the Wind.”
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| The Wicked Witch of the West make-over with GWTW green velvet costume. |
EURO-DESIGNERS PREVIEW SPRING 2019
Paris and Milan are the heart and soul of fashion, but recent seasons have been less than splendiferous. Whereas in decades past, the launch of a new fashion season warranted coverage on TV news programs, but not any longer. Is runway reporting now so elitist that the average consumer no longer understands the so-called “cutting edge?” A new generation of young designers has replaced most of the venerable talents, though their names still appear on the label. Example: Valentino, Christian Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Celine, Saint Laurent (sans his first name) are now designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Alessandro Michele, Demna Gvasalia, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Hedi Slimane and Anthony Vaccarello. Hardly household names. Never fear, Karl Lagerfeld is still guiding Chanel and Giorgio Armani is steadfast. Of the hundreds of Euro-designer shows presented for spring 2019, the stand-out collections offer varied interpretations and expressions, more than necessary, if truth is to be told. Following is a glimpse of the shows I considered the most important and influential.
CHANEL by KARL LAGERFELD…Another spectacular show setting in Paris’ Grand Palais. Tons of sand and a real water rising tide captured the feeling of a tropical beach with barefoot models wearing odd seaside tweeds. Revisiting ‘80s Scuba style as well as the traditional Chanel classics, reinvented yet again.
THE CHANEL COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
VALENTINO…Pierpaolo Piccioli is the hottest designer in Europe, right now. His spring 2019 triumph honored appreciation of couture dressmaking. Black dominates, but wild color adds zest, especially for Matisse/Gauguin-inspired prints.
THE VALENTINO COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
GIORGIO ARMANI…This truly great designer may have been inspired by “The Shape of Water” for his modern mermaid collection achieving fluid undersea otherworldliness. Arguably the most beautiful collection of the season.
THE GIORGIO ARMANI COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
LOUIS VUITTON…Sci-fi experiments by designer Nicolas Ghesquiere meant to bring the Space Age home to reality. Recurrent ‘80s call-backs in hi-tech fabrics sometimes with exciting, artistic prints.
THE LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
CHRISTIAN DIOR…Gone is any trace of vintage couture, not so much as a hint of the extreme ultra-femme that has always been the house’s signature. Instead, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection in black, white and nude looked like modern dancewear, loose and elegantly cool, totally in tune with today’s idea of romance.
THE CHRISTIAN DIOR COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
BALENCIAGA…Demna Gvasaria is the media’s darling designer du jour. Models resembling femme fatale replicants wore extremely challenging “Neo Tailoring,” (the designer’s name for his “pragmatic problem solving.” Cristobal Balenciaga must be spinning in his grave.
THE BALENCIAGA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
SAINT LAURENT…Designer Anthony Vaccarello seems locked into repeating a recurrent theme of slightly kinky, sexually provocative, monotonously black, usually short-short. Same look as last season.
THE SAINT LAURENT COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
GIANBATTISTA VALLI…This youngish designer looks as if he is creating a wardrobe for a glamorous Jet Set star of Cine Citta, alta moda high gloss vintage. He explained the collection as “pieces that you don’t know whether they are from the past, the future or right now.”
THE GIAMBATTISTA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
CELINE…Eager anticipation of designer Hedi Slimane’s debut turned out to be a sour disappointment. Lots of black for a collection of sexed-up retro that looked like a watered-down version of the current Saint Laurent imagery.
THE CELINE COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
GUCCI…Designer Alessandro Michele’s resurrectionist influence is going strong. What that means is more and more vintage mash-ups of wildly random pieces of the Past now living in the Present.
THE GUCCI COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
DRIES VAN NOTEN…He doesn’t make headlines, just simply turns out collection after collection of fresh, contemporary clothes, always wearable yet different. A keen colorist with a knack for innovation prints and patterns.
THE DRIES VAN NOTEN COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
PRADA…A surprising movement away from avant garde towards neo-classic conservatism that is aimed at a more youthful customer, could be the Millennial. A very subtle smash-up that positions a new sense of liberation versus a bit of fantasy.
THE PRADA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
BURBERRY…Spectacular debut collection by Riccardo Tisci, 134 looks for men and women. Inspired by Brit tradition from horsey posh to cool punk, brilliantly reimagined as a cutting edge expression of up-to-the-nano-second fashion.
THE BURBERRY COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
DOLCE & GABBANA…Way, way over the top, beyond extravagant. Overwhelming embellishment and an array of fantastic floral prints, sheer fabrics and glorious brocades. Pictorial and religious motifs. Overstated accessories. A few sexy black corsetry classics.
THE DOLCE & GABBANA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019
Paris and Milan are the heart and soul of fashion, but recent seasons have been less than splendiferous. Whereas in decades past, the launch of a new fashion season warranted coverage on TV news programs, but not any longer. Is runway reporting now so elitist that the average consumer no longer understands the so-called “cutting edge?” A new generation of young designers has replaced most of the venerable talents, though their names still appear on the label. Example: Valentino, Christian Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Celine, Saint Laurent (sans his first name) are now designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Alessandro Michele, Demna Gvasalia, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Hedi Slimane and Anthony Vaccarello. Hardly household names. Never fear, Karl Lagerfeld is still guiding Chanel and Giorgio Armani is steadfast. Of the hundreds of Euro-designer shows presented for spring 2019, the stand-out collections offer varied interpretations and expressions, more than necessary, if truth is to be told. Following is a glimpse of the shows I considered the most important and influential.
CHANEL by KARL LAGERFELD…Another spectacular show setting in Paris’ Grand Palais. Tons of sand and a real water rising tide captured the feeling of a tropical beach with barefoot models wearing odd seaside tweeds. Revisiting ‘80s Scuba style as well as the traditional Chanel classics, reinvented yet again.
 |
| THE CHANEL COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
VALENTINO…Pierpaolo Piccioli is the hottest designer in Europe, right now. His spring 2019 triumph honored appreciation of couture dressmaking. Black dominates, but wild color adds zest, especially for Matisse/Gauguin-inspired prints.
 |
| THE VALENTINO COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
GIORGIO ARMANI…This truly great designer may have been inspired by “The Shape of Water” for his modern mermaid collection achieving fluid undersea otherworldliness. Arguably the most beautiful collection of the season.
 |
| THE GIORGIO ARMANI COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
LOUIS VUITTON…Sci-fi experiments by designer Nicolas Ghesquiere meant to bring the Space Age home to reality. Recurrent ‘80s call-backs in hi-tech fabrics sometimes with exciting, artistic prints.
 |
| THE LOUIS VUITTON COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
CHRISTIAN DIOR…Gone is any trace of vintage couture, not so much as a hint of the extreme ultra-femme that has always been the house’s signature. Instead, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection in black, white and nude looked like modern dancewear, loose and elegantly cool, totally in tune with today’s idea of romance.
 |
| THE CHRISTIAN DIOR COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
BALENCIAGA…Demna Gvasaria is the media’s darling designer du jour. Models resembling femme fatale replicants wore extremely challenging “Neo Tailoring,” (the designer’s name for his “pragmatic problem solving.” Cristobal Balenciaga must be spinning in his grave.
 |
| THE BALENCIAGA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
SAINT LAURENT…Designer Anthony Vaccarello seems locked into repeating a recurrent theme of slightly kinky, sexually provocative, monotonously black, usually short-short. Same look as last season.
 |
| THE SAINT LAURENT COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
GIANBATTISTA VALLI…This youngish designer looks as if he is creating a wardrobe for a glamorous Jet Set star of Cine Citta, alta moda high gloss vintage. He explained the collection as “pieces that you don’t know whether they are from the past, the future or right now.”
 |
| THE GIAMBATTISTA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
CELINE…Eager anticipation of designer Hedi Slimane’s debut turned out to be a sour disappointment. Lots of black for a collection of sexed-up retro that looked like a watered-down version of the current Saint Laurent imagery.
 |
| THE CELINE COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
GUCCI…Designer Alessandro Michele’s resurrectionist influence is going strong. What that means is more and more vintage mash-ups of wildly random pieces of the Past now living in the Present.
 |
| THE GUCCI COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
DRIES VAN NOTEN…He doesn’t make headlines, just simply turns out collection after collection of fresh, contemporary clothes, always wearable yet different. A keen colorist with a knack for innovation prints and patterns.
 |
| THE DRIES VAN NOTEN COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
PRADA…A surprising movement away from avant garde towards neo-classic conservatism that is aimed at a more youthful customer, could be the Millennial. A very subtle smash-up that positions a new sense of liberation versus a bit of fantasy.
 |
| THE PRADA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
BURBERRY…Spectacular debut collection by Riccardo Tisci, 134 looks for men and women. Inspired by Brit tradition from horsey posh to cool punk, brilliantly reimagined as a cutting edge expression of up-to-the-nano-second fashion.
 |
| THE BURBERRY COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
DOLCE & GABBANA…Way, way over the top, beyond extravagant. Overwhelming embellishment and an array of fantastic floral prints, sheer fabrics and glorious brocades. Pictorial and religious motifs. Overstated accessories. A few sexy black corsetry classics.
 |
| THE DOLCE & GABBANA COLLECTION, SPRING 2019 |
WHY DON'T YOU?
Many decades ago, Diana Vreeland wrote a column in Harper’s Bazaar entitled, “Why Don’t You?” In it, the young socialite/fashion editor proposed fanciful suggestions such as, “Why Don’t You put all your dogs in bright yellow collars and leads like all the dogs in Paris? Why Don’t You order Schiaparelli's cellophane belt with your name and telephone number on it? Why Don’t You tie black tulle bows on your wrist? Why Don’t You rinse your blond child's hair in dead champagne to keep it gold, as they do in France?” Fast forward to the November 2018 issue of the magazine. The last page parodies the long-gone Vreeland column, asking, Why Don’t You…WEAR A BUCKET ON YOUR HEAD? The “bucket” in the photo is really a bowl. Fashion magazines don’t usually display a sense of humor, but this is hilarious!
Why Don’t You have a good laugh from Harper’s Bazaar?
Many decades ago, Diana Vreeland wrote a column in Harper’s Bazaar entitled, “Why Don’t You?” In it, the young socialite/fashion editor proposed fanciful suggestions such as, “Why Don’t You put all your dogs in bright yellow collars and leads like all the dogs in Paris? Why Don’t You order Schiaparelli's cellophane belt with your name and telephone number on it? Why Don’t You tie black tulle bows on your wrist? Why Don’t You rinse your blond child's hair in dead champagne to keep it gold, as they do in France?” Fast forward to the November 2018 issue of the magazine. The last page parodies the long-gone Vreeland column, asking, Why Don’t You…WEAR A BUCKET ON YOUR HEAD? The “bucket” in the photo is really a bowl. Fashion magazines don’t usually display a sense of humor, but this is hilarious!
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| Why Don’t You have a good laugh from Harper’s Bazaar? |
Some are actually downright pretty!! But then again...such grouchy looking models. Didn't models used to smile and dazzle the outfit? Nothing lovelier than a Suzy Parker smiling and strutting her stuff. The outfits always looked better when you thought the model enjoyed wearing them...now they all look like disgruntled children whose mommas made them wear these awful outfits--and on school photo-day at that.
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