Fashions from the Tonys, Designer Menswear 2020, Convention Coloring, Kansas City Paper Doll Souvenirs

Tonys Prove Broadway is Alive and Well!

Wrapping up the seemingly endless “Awards Season” are the Tonys, celebrating a record-breaking year of audience attendance on or around Broadway. Whereas the Tony Awards Show used to be somewhat low key and classy, it is now a major, mind-blowing extravaganza that plays to a full house at New York’s mammoth Radio City Music Hall as well as a network TV 2-hour presentation. Two-time host James Corden’s high-energy participation was splendid and the show was studded with explosive numbers from the nominated musicals. As usual, I watched the show with my eye peeled for any surprise fashion trends. Sorry to report that the presenters’ gowns were good and sometimes even gorgeous, but hardly trend-setting. Diversity in dress was the over-riding style statement. The most attention-grabbing outfit was a fluid-gender showstopper with a pink tulle train worn by Billy Porter. There were a few grandiose gowns, period pieces from Dior’s heyday and some simpler sophisticated statements. What would an Awards show be without a sprinkling of razzle dazzle sparkle? More interesting perhaps, were some novelty textured textiles and a few one-of-a-kind prints and trims. Color came on strong, substituting the usually ubiquitous black with a rainbow palette that included primary bright red, blue and yellow. Bob Mackie won a Tony for best costume design of a musical, The Cher Show. He told a charming story.“When I was ten years old, my Uncle asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up and I told him I wanted to be a costume designer on Broadway. His eyes rolled back in his head and he just walked away. Here I am, 70 years later, and I got my first Tony nomination.” 

Fashion diversity personified, left-to-right: Rachel Brosnahan, Billy Porter and Tina Fey.

Grandiose gowns: Celia Keenan-Bolger, Sophia Anne Caruso and Hilary Rhoda.

Sophisticated simplicity: Laurie Metcalf, Audra McDonald and Regina King.

Razzle dazzle: Judith Light, Laura Linney and Vanessa Hudgens.

Fancy Textured fabrics: Kelli O'Hara, Ruth Wilson and Jane Krakowski.

One of a kind: Anna Wintour, Cynthia Erivo and Laura Donnelly.

Primary color palette: Ali Stroker, Lucy Liu and Jordan Roth.

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Designer Menswear Spring 2020: Working the Season

Do “real” men buy and wear cutting edge designer menswear? Do they even care what comes down the runways? Probably not. But the high style stuff is created by very important designers who are intentional influencers. Their presentations act as a sort of experimental fashion laboratory, a testing ground. Of course, not every designer is a genius, a hard fact that must be taken into consideration. Here’s how I work through a season. Firstly, I review on-line most of the hundreds of shows previewing spring 2020. (Reviewing the shows on-line is more efficient than fighting for a decent seat in a crushing throng.) I take notes and pull images that capture my attention. I look for changes in silhouette, color and textiles. I rely on my gut instinct to recognize what is new, yet commercially viable. For spring 2020, I reacted positively to extraordinary prints, bright colors, creamy colors, sandy beige, oversize jackets and wide, high-waist soft pants, transparencies, leopard spots (yes, still!). Most interesting is the blurring of gender in fashion. Gender Fluid is neither masculine nor feminine. It is both. It is free of traditional gender-specific colors, fabrics, apparel and accessories. 

V.I.P. Designer: Ralph Lauren’s bright color ideas. 

V.I.P. Designer: Dolce & Gabanna glorification.

V.I.P. Designer: Versace’s hot luxury.

V.I.P. Designer: Sterling Ruby for SR Studio LACA, a star is born.

V.I.P. Designer: Hedi Slimane for Celine’s early ‘70s retro.

V.I.P. Designer: Jacquemus’ pretty provencal.

V.I.P. Designer: Sir Paul Smith rethinks his biz suit.

V.I.P. Designer: Kim Jones for Dior Men referencing the recent past.

V.I.P. Designer: Veronique Nichanian for Hermes’ relaxed tailoring

V.I.P. Designer: Dries Van Noten’s eye-popping prints.

V.I.P. Designer: Dsquared2 studies Chinese cultural heritage.

V.I.P. Designer: Giorgio Armani softens tailoring.

V.I.P. Designer: Olivier Rousteing for Balmain’s starstruck shine.

V.I.P. Designer: Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton’s luxury streetwear.

V.I.P. Designer: Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino’s planetary prints.

V.I.P. Palette: Bright Colors. McQueen, Giorgio Armani and Ralph Lauren.

V.I.P. Palette: Creamy Colors. Hermes, Paul Smith and Kenzo.

V.I.P. Surprising Shade: Sandy Beige. Dior Men, Dolce & Gabbana and Hermes.

V.I.P. Prints: Extraordinary. Dsquared2, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino.

V.I.P Hot Item: Oversize Jackets. Dries Van Noten, Balmain and Paul Smith.

V.I.P Hot Item: Soft Pants. Dior Men, Dolce & Gabbana and Louis Vuitton.

V.I.P Mor Leopard. Celine, Dolce & Gabbana and Dries Van Noten.

V.I.P Hot Buzz: Transparencies. Dior Men, Balmain and Dolce & Gabbana.

V.I.P. Hot Buzz: Gender Fluid Fashion. McQueen, Balmain and Dries Van Noten. 

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Convention Coloring

My monthly coloring fun is four pages from the Paper Doll Coloring and Cut-Out black-and-white packet handed out to all convention attendees. The color-ready sheets were drawn by several popular artists. I chose to color two pages by Jim Howard and two pages by Brenda Sneathen Mattox celebrating the classic mystery, Laura. 

Color & Cut Convention hand-out artwork by Jim Howard, colored by me. 

Color & Cut Convention hand-out artwork by Brenda Sneathen Mattox, colored by me. 

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Retro Chic Convention Souvenirs

The recent Paper Doll Convention, held in Kansas City, was a delightful experience for all. Pat O’Rourke, this year’s head honcho, organized four days of fun; renewing friendships, enjoying creative workshops and informative presentations held in a comfortable, spacious venue. The Raffle broke the record for donation prizes. The souvenir books handed-out at each evening’s bountiful banquet were impressive. All exemplified the convention’s “mystery” theme. My favorites also referenced retro chic movies including Jim Howard’s Charade with Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy wardrobe and Hitchcock’s Icy Blondes by Eileen Rudisill Miller. Also capturing the retro chic vibe was Murder on the Orient Express by Gregg Nystrom and The Postman Always Rings Twice by Norma Lu Meehan. Karen Hunter referenced Suspicion and Double Indemnity. Laura was remembered by Brenda Sneathen Mattton. My own souvenir contribution was The Thin Man. There may be some souvenir packs available to purchase for $110. Email Pat O'Rourke for more info.

Charade starring Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant, by Jim Howard.

Audrey’s Charade wardrobe by Givenchy. 

Hitchcock’s Icy Blondes with costumes for Kim Novak from Vertigo, Eva Marie Saint in North by Northwest and Grace Kelly in Dial M for Murder. 

Lauren Bacall and Vanessa Redgrave in Murder on the Orient Express.

Wardrobe for Barbara Stanwyck from Double Indemnity and Lana Turner in The Postman Always Rings Twice.

The Thin Man, Nick and Nora Charles starring William Powell and Myna Loy.