Jan 21, 2020

Royal Princesses, Ungaro, Golden Globes, Palm Springs Film Festival, Pre-Fall 2020 Designers, Pantone Color of the Year

Royal Princesses, Regally Dressed


I have just finished a new paper doll book, scheduled to be published mid-year by Paper Studio Press. “Royal Princesses of the 20th Century” features five real-life Royals, each with several outfits. Princess Alexandra of Denmark married the Prince of Wales, Queen Victoria’s son, and thereby became the longest reigning Princess of Wales in history until she was crowned Queen Consort. Princess Margaret Rose, sister of Elizabeth II, was a glamorous personality with a devil-may-care air and a hedonistic attitude. Diana, Princess of Wales was so popular she became known as “the people’s princess.” Her tragic death being pursued by a horde of paparazzi saddened the world. Princess Anne, only daughter of the reigning Queen, was honored with the special title “Princess Royal” as a reward for being so hard working. Princess Grace of Monaco came to the throne of a storybook kingdom on the Riviera by way of Hollywood stardom.


 Princess Alexandra of Denmark; Diana, Princess of Wales and Princess Margaret Rose. 

 Princess Alexandra of Denmark, Princess Royal Anne and Princess Grace of Monaco

 Princess of Wales and Princess Royal Anne, Princess Margaret Rose and Princess Grace of Monaco.


Emanuel Ungaro, Rest in Peace


Emanuel Ungaro, one of the brightest talents in Paris Haute Couture during the '60s and '70s, died December 22nd at age 86. He was born in Aix en Provence and when just a boy, his father gifted him with a sewing machine. At age 22 he went to Paris and worked for brilliant couturiers Cristóbal Balenciaga and André Courrèges before opening his own house in 1965. Ungaro quickly became a star, offering his own version of a simplistic, Space Age style that slowly morphed into a wildly successful colorful and sexy look, ruffled and draped. In 2005 Ungaro sold his company for $84 million, including a fragrance business that continued to flourish and presently generates $200 million annually. Without him at the helm, the Emanuel Ungaro name lost its luster under the inept creativity of several so-called designers including a notorious season credited to media “It” girl of the moment, Lindsay Lohan. 
 Designer Emanuel Ungaro and a ‘60s look.


 My own illustration of an Ungaro creation in English Harper’s Bazaar, Sept. 1969, reprinted in “Fashion Illustration 1930-1970.” Published by Batsford, U.K.



Ball Gown Again and Again


If I say that I am a “perfectionist” where my paper dolls are concerned, it is not to suggest that I believe any of my artwork achieves absolute perfection. But I do try. I struggled with the challenge of a ball gown for the Princess Grace of Monaco in my upcoming Royal Princesses of the 20th Century book. For inspiration I found a vintage photo of the ex-movie star wearing a cream-colored strapless gown and a white fox fur stole. Very royal, indeed. However, I had trouble working out the width and placement of the subtle self-stripes in the fabric. The ivory color seemed too dull, so I experimented with various shades of violet and blue before I got the light lavender effect I wanted.
 Ball gown for Princess Grace paper doll inspired by elegant photo.


 Preliminary sketches to experiment with self-stripe fabric, recolored artist prerogative. 


 Color testing, shades of violet.


 Blue hues, a bit too safe.



Creatively Colored Movie Posters


Classic Movie Posters is a fun coloring book published by Dover. It contains 30 vintage movie posters reworked as black-and-white line art by Marty Noble and ready to color with pencils (my favorite medium), crayons or markers. Of course, purists can color the posters as they were originally printed, but I think it’s much more fun to experiment with surprising alternatives. I wondered what King Kong would look like with pink fur? How about a red recolor of Audrey Hepburn’s slinky black gown to wear for breakfast at Tiffany’s? Or maybe Judy Garland might mistakenly get green make-up meant for the Wicked Witch of the West? Coloring book available for $4.99 from paperdollreview.com.

 Cover and King Kong as a pretty pet in pale pink.


 Audrey’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, gowned in red. Green witchery turns Judy green.




Classic Blue Chosen as the Color of the Coming Year


Pantone has played it safe and decreed that the color of 2020 will be Classic Blue (Their number 19-4052). Perfectly pitched for our troubled times, this strong blue is dependable and stable, simple and reassuring. It’s timeless and enduring, a denim-friendly workhorse hue that can also be surprisingly sophisticated. 
 Pantone 19-4052, already working well for Christian Siriano.



Sampling Pre-Fall 2020 Designer Collections


Adding to the confusion of changing climate and crazy weather patterns, the fashion industry insists on acting as if there really is a season known as “Pre-Fall.” Is it the day before the leaves change color? Of course it is just a ploy to sell more fashion. It consists of fresh new stock to be delivered to stores just as the real summer is starting, but before the genuine Fall stocks are delivered at the end of summer. If you are confused, you are not alone. For fashionistas or fashion professionals, this fraudulent “season” gives hints about in-coming trends that often turn into the big fashion news at the all-important Fall Ready-to-Wear and the even-later showing of Fall Haute Couture collections to be unveiled in Paris in the middle of summer. Following is a sampling of the recent Pre-Fall 2020 fashion stories: a red color alert, pretty pinks, juicy oranges, natural neutrals, tailored jackets/blazers, skinny-leg pantsuits, short shorts, micro-mini hemlines.

 Red alert! Focus on this classic color. Giorgio Armani, Bottega Veneta, DSquared2.


 Thinking pink, ever-popular. Altuzarra, Chanel, Gucci. 


 Hot orange! In the fashion spotlight. Brandon Marshall, Valentino, Gucci.


 Natural neutrals, usually several shades together. Christian Dior, The Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta.


 Tailored jackets and re-interpreted blazers. Giorgio Armani, Giorgio Armani, DSquared2.

 Skinny-leg pantsuits and outfits. Altuzarra, Giorgio Armani, Carolina Herrera.


 Wide-leg pants, going to extreme. Bottega Veneta, Tory Burch, Gucci. 


 Short shorts, casual and dressy. Carolina Herrera, DSquared2, Ralph Lauren.


 Long leg show with short shorts and micro-minis. Christian Dior, DSquared2, Ralph Lauren.


The Film Festival Next Door


I could not ignore The 31st Palm Springs Film Festival that kicked off the Awards Season because the red carpet is unrolled just one block away from my apartment. The festival screened over 200 films from all around the world but the media coverage and the crowds came to see stars. I, myself, seek out style stories, a sort of prequel to the fashions that will step out on the red carpets at the Golden Globes and later, the venerable Oscars. All awards shows are major media frock opportunities, high fashion worn by big stars. The Palm Springs Festival fashions follow the traditional style spotting with looks that are good and/or bad, as well as those that play it safe and wear black. 

 The Good Looks on Jennifer Lopez wearing Richard Quinn and Cynthia Erivo in Schiaparelli Couture.


 The Bad Looks on Greta Gerwig in Erdem, Charlize Theron in Christian Dior and Laura Dern in Erdem.


 The Black Looks on Lorene Scafaria wearing Azzi & Ostra, Renee Zellweger in Jason Wu and Salma Hayek.



Glorious Fashion at Golden Globes Awards


The 77th Golden Globes Awards sponsored by the Hollywood Foreign Press Association were presented early in January. Glamorous stars walked a long, crowded Red Carpet upon arrival and provided a super-duper informal fashion show. Professional stylists call the Hollywood style shots, so no wonder most looks are on-trend. (Still, a few bloopers appear… Kerry Washington was the very worst, while young Joey King was Best of Show wearing a creative creation by avant garde Belgian designer Iris Van Herpen.) The stars’ styles focus attention on design, textiles and color stories that might possibly filter down to the real-life Mainstream. Design ideas for eveningwear include big bows, plunging necklines and bare shoulders. Basic plain and simple clothes are made of sparkling materials. Sheer fabrics reveal the body beautiful, while silks and satins are sculpted into statuesque silhouettes. Color stories offer plentiful workable palettes, including red, black, sugar sweets and some surprising greens. The Golden Globes got the so-called Awards Season off to a glorious start, fashion-wise and it’s just the beginning. 


 Big bows make an emphatic high fashion statement. Jennifer Lopez, DaVine and Scarlett Johansson.


 Simple styles with subtle allover sparkle. Saoirse Ronan, Giuliana Rancic and Amy Poehler.


 Shoulders bared in strapless gowns. Ana de Armas, Rachel Weisz and Margot Robbie.


 Sheer see-thru fabrics for a sexy peek-a-boo tease. Gwyneth Paltrow, Blanca Blanco and Erin Lim.


 Practical pantsuits get a glamour update. Phoebe Waller-Bridge, Kate McKinnon and Ellen Degeneres.


 Red comes to attention and stops traffic. Kate Graham, Helen Mirren and Nicole Kidman.


 Greenery gets growing in color importance. Charlize Theron, Jodie Comer and Jennifer Lahmers. 

 Black is always a solid success. Rooney Mara, Naomi Watts and Jennifer Aniston.


 Sugar sweet delicate pales are oh-so pretty. Renee Zellweger, Dakota Fanning and Sienna Miller.

 OMG! Unbelievable Red Carpet bloopers. Lucy Boynton, Kerry Washington (What was she thinking?) and Molly Sims.

 Spellbinding Showstoppers show that fashion dreams come true on the Golden Globes Red Carpet. Cate Blanchett, Billy Porter and Joey King.

4 comments:

  1. Congratulations on your Queens. What a lot of work you put into color! I gotta say, your fashion pages from the Golden Globes mostly gave me the laughs of the day. Do these women check themselves out in a mirror? And the designers: some look like they were wearing big-sister"s oversized clothes. Oh dear. The fact that I cling to Ralph Lauren shows I've lost my fashion sense.

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  2. Looking forward to getting a copy of your Princesses! Can't wait to see the all the fashions you create for these ladies. I am especially interested in seeing what you have for my two favorites: Princess Diana and Princess Grace.

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    Replies
    1. You have excellent royal taste, picking the princesses who are so wonderful.

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