Mar 4, 2019

2019 Red Carpet Reviews of the Grammys and Oscars, Fall '19 Euro-Designer Menswear, Hollywood Fiesta Paper Dolls, Coloring Academy Award Winners, Karl Lagerfeld

Grammys Go Glam!


The 2018 Grammy Awards show was a surprisingly glamorous show with sophisticated fashion in the spotlight. Gone were the usual rocker chicks, replaced by fashionista rappers who dare to wear cutting edge, high fashion looks. Many of the stars took advantage of the attention given to fashion coverage of the evening and wore more than one outfit. Media-savvy Lady Gaga, for example, arrived in a black lace bodysuit under a vast black taffeta overskirt. She changed into a silver sheath with an asymmetric wing extension. To perform her Grammy-winning song, “Shallow,” she dazzled in a jewel-encrusted catsuit. Gaga was upstaged though. Fashion-conscious rapper, Cardi B wore “Venus,” an extraordinary costume designed in 1995 by French designer/showman, Thierry Mugler. A black wand of a gown with an enormous “clamshell” satin tutu was a challenge for Cardi B to baby-step the red carpet, but it looked so sensational that it nearly caused a riot as the photographers went berserk. The beautiful, publicity-seeking 26 year old star donned another Mugler costume to perform a burlesque-inspired number from her Grammy-winning “Album of the Year.” The glam Grammy red carpet acknowledged all the current high fashion trends: a lot of white, sometimes in exaggerated silhouettes, plenty of sparkle, especially silver, a few fine feathers and some frothy confections of sheer tulle. 


Cardi B wearing 1995 Thierry Mugler clamshell showstopper.

Anna Kendrick & Valerie Macon, Jennifer Lopez & Lady Gaga.

Sculptural shapes on Kylie Jenner, Cardi B and Heidi Klum.

Jada Plunkett Smith, Pink and Ashlee Simpson in fine feathers.

Sheer tulle on Rhianna, Bebe Rexha and Kacey Musgraves.

SZA, Lady Gaga and Dua Lipa in dramatic white and black and silver.




Academy Awards Fashion Free-for-all!


The annual Oscar Awards show is billed as “Hollywood’s Biggest Night.” The recent 91st celebration, sans a host, didn’t seem very “big” at all, just a plodding presentation of gold statuettes. The show came to life only twice: the opening musical recall of Queen and the eagerly-anticipated duet by Lady Gaga and Bradley Cooper. Otherwise, over-long “Thank you” speeches kept the pace at slow turtle speed. However, there was enough daring and/or appropriate fashion to satisfy fashion-watchers like me. Trends? Not really. More like a free-for-all. Black and white. Lady Gaga’s full-skirted black gown by McQueen allowed all attention devoted to the enormous Tiffany diamond necklace, value $30 million. Also wearing black were Allison Janney, Barbra Streisand (with a knitted beret) and Amy Poehler. White lent an incandescent glow to Regina King, Nadine Labaki and Amy Adams. Many shades pink were in the spotlight, though not a new story, for sure. Looking pretty in rosy reds and pinks were Helen Mirren, Gemma Chan, Jennifer Hudson, Kacey Musgraves and Julia Roberts. The most interesting fashion news was the appearance of some very special sculptural shapes that referenced grande haute couture silhouettes, recalling Balenciaga and Christian Dior at their peak. Wearing these complex constructions were Angela Bassett, Sarah Paulson and Linda Cardellini. Long trains continue to be a challenge for the wearers who need assistance in keeping yards of fabric under control. Best actress Olivia Colman and Glenn Close were dragging the longest trains. I am happy to notice that over-sexed vulgarity is a bit on the wane, at last. Still plenty of sparkle, the red carpet regular, was dazzling on J-Lo, Emma Stone and Brie Larson. 


Dramatic black on Lady Gaga, Amy Poehler and Allison Janney.

Aglow in white, Regina King, Amy Adams and Nadine Labaki.

Pretty pinks on Kacey Musgraves, Gemma Chan and Julia Roberts.

Red statements on Jennifer Hudson, Linda Cardellini and Helen Mirren.

Soft sculptured shapes worn by Angela Bassett, Sarah Paulson and Emilia Clarke.

Bothersome trains on Olivia Colman, Glenn Close and Hannah Beachler.

Starry sparkles on J-Lo, Molly Sims and Emma Stone.



Vintage Coloring Books of Academy Award Winners


The annual “Awards Season” always turns my attention to movie history and the great stars of the past. The most prestigious of awards are those of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, awards selected by industry peers. As I awaited the awards show this year, I wondered how many Academy Award winning Best Actresses over the years had been the subjects of coloring books. I found that my own collection of vintage books has only four such stars. Elizabeth Taylor won twice for “Butterfield 8” in 1961 and “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” in 1967. She was also nominated three more times. Loretta Young donned a blonde wig and a Scandinavian accent in 1948 for “The Farmer’s Daughter” and she was also nominated once more. Bette Davis won for “Dangerous” in 1936 and “Jezebel” in 1939. She was also impressively nominated nine more times. Greer Garson won for “Mrs. Miniver” in 1943 and gave a famously overlong acceptance speech of 5.5 minutes instead of the usual 46 seconds. She was also nominated six more times. I was inspired to color pages from my vintage coloring book collection as a homage to the Oscars. What a shame there are not movie star coloring books created today. I can just imagine coloring Meryl Streep, Lady Gaga…or even Cardi B! Oh well, I can dream, can’t I? 

Elizabeth Taylor 1954 coloring book.

Loretta Young coloring book, circa 1955.

Bette Davis 1942 coloring book.

Greer Garson 1944 coloring book.



Fall '19 Euro-Designer Menswear


In recent seasons, menswear designers seem to have been determined to dress-down men in streetstyle, activewear and denim. Now the tide is turning. More than a few European designers of menswear have rediscovered traditional tailored suits and carefully coordinated sportswear. It’s as if many designers are aiming to update a real-man’s wardrobe. The most interesting collections are each expressing the shift in mood in their own way. Hedi Slimane played it safe at Celine, but experimented with high pleated pants. Dolce & Gabbana turned back time for ‘30s influenced elegance and pajama suits. Dior Men designed suits for a new younger generation. Dries Van Noten resurrected tie-dye as the recurring note in his collection. D2 Squared reworked that ol’ Grunge with cleaner colors while Etro took a trip to Fantasyland. Hermes lacked news, but sure should sell and sell. One misguided collection was created by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. The designer seems delighted to confess he’s totally un-trained (and it shows!). His tribute to Michael Jackson tried to reach a new customer for the venerable label, but it was a sour note. Neil Barrett reinvented “punk” as a collision of biker/school uniform/military plus neon signage prints and this season’s popular leopard spots. Prada proclaimed the dark and alienated collection was inspired by Frankenstein and The Rocky Horror Picture Show. More down-to-earth is Stella McCartney’s collection celebrating the 50th anniversary of her father’s famously psychedelic Yellow Submarine. At Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller’s lack of menswear experience made it painfully obvious that the designer of Megan’s wedding gown should best stick to womenswear and forget the flares for men too young to remember them decades ago. 


Hedi Slimane for Celine.

Dolce & Gabbana.

Dior Men.

Dries Van Noten.

D2 Squared.

Etro.

Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton.

Neil Barrett.

Prada.

Stella McCartney.

Hermes.

Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy.


Sneak Peek Convention Souvenir


The souvenir paper doll books handed out during the annual convention are always a thrill to collectors attending and those who register to receive the Absentee Package. I was excited to be invited to create one of the many souvenir books for this year’s convention in Kansas City, MO. July 3-6, 2019. The theme is “Mystery, Murder & Mayhem.” I have chosen to represent the marvelous mystery-comedy by Dashiell Hammett, The Thin Man starring suave William Powell and sophisticated fashion plate Myrna Loy. So successful was the first film in 1934 that five sequels followed. Martini-imbibing Nick and Nora Charles (and their dog, Asta) are ideal paper dolls and Nora’s super-chic wardrobe by MGM designer, Dolly Tree, is Hollywood glamour personified. To register for the convention or to order the Absentee Package for $110.00 contact Pat O’Rourke, 1-386-265-4571 or email Pat


Nick and Nora Charles paper dolls for “The Thin Man” convention souvenir paper doll book. DVD compilation of all six films in the series, available on amazon.com.



Fiesta Paper Doll Book Inspiration


What’s my next big paper doll book project? Jenny Taliadoros and I are collaborating on a multi-doll book, RETRO HOLLYWOOD FIESTA! It will celebrate the historic World War II years when President Roosevelt initiated the “Good Neighbor Policy” honoring our Latin American allies. The government suggested that the movie industry make some films to promote south of the border countries as an alternative to war torn European culture. The studios met the challenge with Down Argentine Way, Week-End in Havana, That Night in Rio, Fiesta, Holiday in Mexico, Nancy Goes to Rio and more. Music was often provided by Xavier Cugat’s band. Carmen Miranda, with her tutti-frutti headdresses came to symbolize the carefree, colorful, Latin American musical comedies. That is the mood and mode I’ll be representing in “Retro Hollywood Fiesta!” The paper doll book will be released by Paper Studio Press later in 2019. 


Inspiration and research for “Retro Hollywood Fiesta!” paper doll book.


Karl Lagerfeld R.I.P.


Fashion has lost a genius designer. May he rest in peace. 


Karl Lagerfeld, one of the 20th century’s greatest designers.


Join us in Kansas City for the 2019 Paper Doll Convention!



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