The Show of Shows for Spring 2020
Jean-Paul Gaultier, a towering talent and fearless fashion kingpin shocked the fashion world by announcing his retirement after 50 years of success. To celebrate his declaration of independence, the oft-outrageous designer staged the most exciting fashion show seen during the recent Paris Haute Couture preview week. No small event, 200 amazing looks sauntered down the runway, worn by a cast of Gaultier’s favorite interesting and eccentric models and characters. The gender fluid extravaganza revisited some Gaultier classics themes including his blue/white signature Breton stripe, denim drama, exposed corsetry and free-range androgyny.
Celebrating Jean-Paul Gaultier’s 50 years in fashion. A surprise appearance by Boy George.
Gaultier’s signature blue/white Breton stripe.
Gaultier joins the season’s great white rage.
Corsetry, of course it’s Gaultier.
Denim done the Gaultier way out way.
Gaultier gets sizzling hot and sexy.
Menswear freely liberated by Gaultier.
One of a kind, Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Jean-Paul Gaultier, a towering talent and fearless fashion kingpin shocked the fashion world by announcing his retirement after 50 years of success. To celebrate his declaration of independence, the oft-outrageous designer staged the most exciting fashion show seen during the recent Paris Haute Couture preview week. No small event, 200 amazing looks sauntered down the runway, worn by a cast of Gaultier’s favorite interesting and eccentric models and characters. The gender fluid extravaganza revisited some Gaultier classics themes including his blue/white signature Breton stripe, denim drama, exposed corsetry and free-range androgyny.
 |
| Celebrating Jean-Paul Gaultier’s 50 years in fashion. A surprise appearance by Boy George. |
 |
| Gaultier’s signature blue/white Breton stripe. |
 |
| Gaultier joins the season’s great white rage. |
 |
| Corsetry, of course it’s Gaultier. |
 |
| Denim done the Gaultier way out way. |
 |
| Gaultier gets sizzling hot and sexy. |
 |
| Menswear freely liberated by Gaultier. |
 |
| One of a kind, Jean-Paul Gaultier. |
Haute Couture, the Last Word
The Paris Haute Couture Continuum is an island unto itself. Because the timing of the fashion cycle is such a snarl, it’s interesting that the final act of every season is the now-archaic custom-creation collections shown only a few weeks before real-time. In other words, the spring 2020 collections previewed in January 2020 Parisian fashion shows are made-to-order and delivered to clients in time for immediate springtime wearing. Too late to set trends? Probably. But a great last-minute inspiration and confirmation as the commercial sector of the fashion industry begins advance planning ahead to 2021 color, silhouette, design detail and textile.
Among a wealth of ideas, the current 2020 couture collections took note of more interesting unexpected colors in addition to black and more black. Undisputed popularity turned the spotlight on popular white, white, white as well as Pantone’s “color of the year” classic blue. Couturiers, in search of a new silhouette, put forth some very interesting extremes including fish tail/trumpets and balloon/ball shapes. Beading, bows and ruffles stirred-up overt femininity echoed in fragile sheers, creamy silks and satin and textural novelties.
Unexpected, interesting colors: Valentino, Givenchy, Alberta Ferretti.
White, white and more white: Viktor & Rolf, Chanel, Ralph & Russo.
Black everywhere, forevermore: Alberta Ferretti, Givenchy, Ralph & Russo.
Pantone’s Classic Blue color of the year: Armani Prive, Martin Margiela, Armani Prive.
Seeking new balloon/ball silhouettes: Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Dior.
Seeking new trumpet/fishtail silhouettes: Givenchy, Valentino, Valentino.
Design details include the craze for big bows: Valentino, Alexis Mabille, Alberta Ferretti.
Design details also include frills and ruffles: Giambettista Valli, Iris Van Herpen, Valentino.
Pleats produce linear textile textures: Dior, Dior, Givenchy.
Filmy sheer textiles speak a soft statement: Chanel, Dior, Armani Prive.
Creamy silk and satin create a statuesque drama: Dior, Giambettista Valli, Valentino.
The Paris Haute Couture Continuum is an island unto itself. Because the timing of the fashion cycle is such a snarl, it’s interesting that the final act of every season is the now-archaic custom-creation collections shown only a few weeks before real-time. In other words, the spring 2020 collections previewed in January 2020 Parisian fashion shows are made-to-order and delivered to clients in time for immediate springtime wearing. Too late to set trends? Probably. But a great last-minute inspiration and confirmation as the commercial sector of the fashion industry begins advance planning ahead to 2021 color, silhouette, design detail and textile.
Among a wealth of ideas, the current 2020 couture collections took note of more interesting unexpected colors in addition to black and more black. Undisputed popularity turned the spotlight on popular white, white, white as well as Pantone’s “color of the year” classic blue. Couturiers, in search of a new silhouette, put forth some very interesting extremes including fish tail/trumpets and balloon/ball shapes. Beading, bows and ruffles stirred-up overt femininity echoed in fragile sheers, creamy silks and satin and textural novelties.
 |
| Unexpected, interesting colors: Valentino, Givenchy, Alberta Ferretti. |
 |
| White, white and more white: Viktor & Rolf, Chanel, Ralph & Russo. |
 |
| Black everywhere, forevermore: Alberta Ferretti, Givenchy, Ralph & Russo. |
 |
| Pantone’s Classic Blue color of the year: Armani Prive, Martin Margiela, Armani Prive. |
 |
| Seeking new balloon/ball silhouettes: Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Dior. |
 |
| Seeking new trumpet/fishtail silhouettes: Givenchy, Valentino, Valentino. |
 |
| Design details include the craze for big bows: Valentino, Alexis Mabille, Alberta Ferretti. |
 |
| Design details also include frills and ruffles: Giambettista Valli, Iris Van Herpen, Valentino. |
 |
| Pleats produce linear textile textures: Dior, Dior, Givenchy. |
 |
| Filmy sheer textiles speak a soft statement: Chanel, Dior, Armani Prive. |
 |
| Creamy silk and satin create a statuesque drama: Dior, Giambettista Valli, Valentino. |
Tom Tierney, Keeper of the Paper Doll Flame
This month’s coloring book is an important historic cultural treasure in my collection of vintage paper dolls. In 1974, Tom Tierney was a very successful commercial artist who published Thirty from the '30s, a paper doll coloring book featuring movie stars of the 1930s with costumes from their hits. At the time, paper dolls, so popular during the ‘40s and ‘50s were past their prime time as a child’s play. Barbie dolls reigned supreme. Tom wisely picked-up on the nostalgia craze by declaring the book as "paper dolls for grown-ups."
That book was the start of Tom’s terrific life-long success as he went on to create hundreds of paper doll books over the ensuing years. His prolific output included not just film stars but politicians and their families, major and minor royalty and book after book of fashion history. And it all began with Thirty from the '30s.
Tom Tierney’s first paper doll coloring book, published in 1974.
Joan Crawford paper doll with costumes from Rain, Grand Hotel, Dancing Lady, The Gorgeous Hussy, The Women and Mannequin. Colored by David.
Fredric March, star of Trade Winds, The Sign of the Cross, The Affairs of Cellini, The Barretts of Wimpole Street, Anna Karenina and Mary of Scotland. Colored by David.
Jean Harlow, star of Goldie, Dinner at Eight, China Seas, Suzy, Personal Property, Bombshell. Colored by David.
This month’s coloring book is an important historic cultural treasure in my collection of vintage paper dolls. In 1974, Tom Tierney was a very successful commercial artist who published Thirty from the '30s, a paper doll coloring book featuring movie stars of the 1930s with costumes from their hits. At the time, paper dolls, so popular during the ‘40s and ‘50s were past their prime time as a child’s play. Barbie dolls reigned supreme. Tom wisely picked-up on the nostalgia craze by declaring the book as "paper dolls for grown-ups."
That book was the start of Tom’s terrific life-long success as he went on to create hundreds of paper doll books over the ensuing years. His prolific output included not just film stars but politicians and their families, major and minor royalty and book after book of fashion history. And it all began with Thirty from the '30s.
 |
| Tom Tierney’s first paper doll coloring book, published in 1974. |
 |
| Joan Crawford paper doll with costumes from Rain, Grand Hotel, Dancing Lady, The Gorgeous Hussy, The Women and Mannequin. Colored by David. |
 |
| Fredric March, star of Trade Winds, The Sign of the Cross, The Affairs of Cellini, The Barretts of Wimpole Street, Anna Karenina and Mary of Scotland. Colored by David. |
 | |
|
Like any normal person is going to buy any of those fashions! Geez. It is all shock and no substance. And shock has about run its course--a fashion-minded woman such as myself tired of shock about two years ago. I want wearable and attractive--chic if possible. Good clean lines that flatter. I wonder if we will see anything like that again. The early 30s, the early 60s--those chic fashions stand the test of time.
ReplyDeleteI do think that we are going to see a rebirth of taste, but we have to be patient.
DeleteHi David, I just finished watching Amanda's video from a link on Paperdoll Review, guess what? We are twins! I, too, was born on March 14, 1941. I have several friends and relatives who were born on March 14, but none in 1941. Happy belated birthday! Love, Mary Herzog, paper doll collector.
ReplyDeleteHappy birthday back atcha! I shared my birthday with my favorite Aunt Mimi. The best people have birthdays on March 14!
Delete